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Gallery Ezakwantu

African Art  - Art Africain - Tribal Art -  菲洲艺术 - Afrikanische Kunst

 

Central and Southern African Tribal Art

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African Adornment - Personal Adornment

Anklets - Armlets - Earplugs - Africa Adorned

Parures africaines - Afrikanischer Schmuck

 

 

 

 

 

Thembu Leather Purses

 

Xhosa - Mfengu Purses

 

 

    

 

Photograph - Alice Mertens - Circa 1960

 

Thembu women wore highly decorated leather purses hanging from the hip over leather skirts.

 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number 267

 

These were worn as status objects and used to protect paper money. 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number 268

 

The openings were so small that sometimes a knife or razor edge had to be used to extract the note. This tight construction was intended to help prevent theft of bank notes.

 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number 269

 

The surface, as well as multiple leather strips were decorated with hand made brass rings, buttons and tacks.

 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number 270

 

Men who worked in the mines or cities gave these to their wives as gifts on their return home. They were highly prized and used to adorn.

 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number 7339

 

The Thembu - Xhosa and Mfengu all owned related leather purses. Our examples are Thembu. Depending on who you ask - singular or plural - they were called Isipaji - Izipaji - Imphuthamphutha and Isipaji-saseMaiMai

 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number  7492

 

This example has been displayed on an iron stand. Contact us for larger resolution images.

 

 

 

Thembu Purse Number 7492

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Anklets from Southern Angola

 

Miniature PVC Artworks

 

 

Click Thumbnails for Larger Images

 

Decorated PVC bracelets are worn throughout a vast region which includes the Donguena, Evale, Hakawama, Himba, Humbe, Kwanyama, Mukubal, Mwila, Ndimba, Ngambwe, Ovambo and Zemba of Southern Angola - and east into various Botswana and Zambian tribes.

 

 

        

 

                         Ndimba girls selling anklets and fertility dolls.                                         Complements - Neil Munro - 2006

 

Unlike most, the Hakawana, Mwila, Ndimba, Ngambwe and Zemba all share a common use of  wider examples worn as anklets. These are worn singularly or in pairs. Finely detailed designs are cut into the PVC while in flat sheet form. Each design and pattern is surprisingly unique to any other. Once completed, ochre, soot or even paint is added for color, then heat  applied to shape it round.

 

Below you will find three views of each single anklet or pair we are able to offer.  Pairs may be sold individually.

 

Click the thumbs for higher resolution photographs.

Item A

Item B and C

Item D

Item E and F

Item G and H

Item I and J

Item K

 

Brass examples generally pre-date PVC.

 

 

Jose Redinha - Angola

 

Brass examples were recorded by Redinha in 1930's publications. Their sharp edges often cut into the leg and they could became very hot in the sun, resulting in blisters. As a result, fabric or paper was often placed between the object and the wearer's leg. 

 

Brass became less popular with the advent of PVC material. PVC was lightweight, far softer and did not absorb infrared light or heat. Additional colors were easily added to white PVC, which yellowed like ivory with age. The softness of PVC allowed the artist to achieve far more complicated engraved designs. Today, brass examples are seldom seen.

 

 

 

Kaffrairian Museum - King Williams Town - South Africa

 

Angolans share a widespread artistic talent for detail. In earlier times, their medium of choice was a calabash. Whether an item was meant to be a milk or beer container, a cup or bowl, or even a thumb piano, if made from a calabash - it was likely decorated. Carved drawings were made onto the surface, chronicling past life like no-where else in Africa.

 

 

 

Dr. Alfred Schachtzabel - Im Hochland Von Angola  - and others.

 

Dr. Alfred Schachtzabel  - Calabash Scenes

 

Southern Angolan anklets are a continuation of an age old traditional art form. Dr. Alfred Schachtzabel traveled to Angola for the first time during 1913 and 1914. There he researched and collected artifacts for the Museum of Ethnology in Berlin. Instantly his sensitive appreciation for detailed Angolan calabash art was born. Drawings of masterworks he came across and or collected, were reproduced in both his and other publications.

 

Click the image above and zoom in to better view his recorded Angolan art form.

 

Click the thumbs below for higher resolution photographs.

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This bracelet is decorated with miniature cowries, which represent wealth and power.

 

Click the thumbs for higher resolution photographs.

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This set of four bracelets are sold as one.

 

The images that follow were taken by Neil Munro in 2006 and included anklets worn by the Hakawana and Zemba peoples. All three women wear a multitude of multi colored bracelets.

 

     

 

     

 

     

 

Blue and Ivory colored PVC are popular with the mentioned tribes in the region.

 

 

The Himba make and decorate larger belts from PVC in the same way as anklets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Zulu Ear Plug  

 

'Iziqhaza'

 

Worn by men and women.

 

 

         

 

 

Zulu have worn ear plugs for centuries.

 

 

           

 

Our example is of the highly sought after wood, vinyl and metal pins form.

 

 

 

 

 

Rare Mfengu (Fingo) Knee Piece

 

 

      

 

 

This item was worn my young men of the Mfengu people, living in the vicinity of East London. The straps are made of goat hide. The attachment section includes brass beads much like used on girls aprons.

 

 

 

 

Today this has become a rare item. We have not seen one on the market for over 10 years.

 

 

 

 

 

Himba Anklet

 

Namibia - Angola

 

 

 

 

Married Himba women wore heavy anklets. They were made of hand wrought iron beads, then strung onto a leather support structure. Anklets such as these displayed wealth and were worn daily. 

 

 

            

 

 

Our example is particularly old and the iron beads are extremely worn.

 

 

          

 

Himba women wore anklets until death. Nowadays Himba anklets are taken apart for their beads, then strung into necklaces and sold to tourists.

 

 

 

 

 

Kapsiki Armlets

 

Cameroon

 

 

 

 

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A very fine and rare matched pair.

 

 

Another Pair

 

 

 

 

 

This matched pair is made from Brass

 

 

 

 

 

Ibo Anklet - Nigeria

 

 

    

 

A very old excellent example.

 

      

 

Most item is most probably of 19th century origin.

 

 

 

 

 

Frafra - Burkina Faso

 

 

Click thumbs to view detailed images.

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This anklet was worn by Frafra women in Burkina Faso.

 

 

 

 

Tuareg Woman's Counterweight

 

'Assrou N´Swoul'

 

 

Tuareg pendants called Assrou N´Swoul look like like elaborate keys. They held down the robes and headscarves of wealthy Tuareg women. They were made of copper, iron, silver, brass and sometimes wood. A sandwich type technique was used in lamination.

 

 

 

Tuareg - 1907 Postcard

 

Tuareg women do not wear a veil, however the men keep their faces covered even when eating.

 

    

 

Tuareg woman wore the elaborate counterweights on their robes and veils as pendants to hold them in place.  The young woman on the left has one under her right arm, as do the two women walking away to the right.

 

 

Tuareg Counterweights

 

The meaning of assrou n´swoul in Tamazight is: key thrown over the shoulder. They are highly prized by both owners and collectors. Blacksmiths are called inadan and are  famous for their metalwork in the Sahara.

 

Click Thumbnails for Larger Images

 

This assrou n´swoul is of the highest quality and the patina confirms its age.

 

 

Assrou n´swoul of this standard are extremely rare.

 

Tuareg History

 

          

 

Descended from Berbers in the region that is now Libya, the Tuareg are descendants of ancient Saharan peoples described by Herodotus, who mentions the ancient Libyan people, the Garamantes. Archaeological testimony is the ruins of Germa. Later, they expanded southward, into the Sahel.
 

 

 

The Tuareg (also known as Twareg, Touareg, Amazigh, Imuhagh and  Itargiyen, are a nomadic pastoralist people and the principal inhabitants of the Saharan interior of North Africa. Today the Tuareg inhabit parts of Niger, Mali, Algeria, Libya and Burkina Faso.


For over two millennia, the Tuareg operated the trans Saharan caravan trade connecting the great cities on the southern edge of the Sahara via five desert trade routes to the northern (Mediterranean) coast of Africa.The Tuareg adopted camel nomadism along with its distinctive form of social organization from camel herding Arabs about two thousand years ago, when the camel was introduced to the Sahara from Saudi Arabia. Like numerous African and other groups in pre-modern times, the Tuareg once took captives, either for trade or for domestic purposes; those who were not sold became assimilated into the Tuareg community. Captive servants and herdsmen formed a component of the division of labor of these nomads.

In the late nineteenth century, the Tuareg resisted the French invasion of their Central Saharan homelands for the purpose of colonization. Tuareg broadswords were no match for the more advanced weapons of French squadrons, and after numerous massacres on both sides, the Tuareg were subdued and required to sign treaties in Mali 1905 and Niger 1917. In southern Algeria, the French met some of the strongest resistance from the Ahaggar Tuareg. Their Amenokal, traditional chief Moussa ag Amastan, fought numerous battles in defense of the region. Finally, Tuareg territories were taken under French governance and their confederations were largely dismantled and reorganized.

 


 

Niger - Tuareg


Before French colonization, the Tuareg were organized into loose confederations, each consisting of a dozen or so tribes. Each of the main groups had a traditional leader called Amenokal along with an assembly of tribal chiefs. The groups were the Kel Ahaggar, Kel Ajjer, Kel Ayr, Adrar n Fughas, Iwəlləmədan, and Kel Gres.

 

Following the independence of African countries in 1960s, Tuareg territory was artificially divided into the modern nations of  Niger, Mali, Algeria, Libya and Burkina Faso.

 

 

 

 

 

Ethiopian Cross Pendants

 

Late 19th to early 20th Century

 

 

Click either image for a higher resolution image.

                                                    Example A                                                                   Example B

 

Ethiopian crosses have their origin in the Coptic Church, "the Christian church of Egypt", established by Mark in the first century. Over time, Copic teachings spread to Ethiopia, where the representation of the cross further developed. Ethiopian crosses can be so sophisticated that sometimes it is difficult to find the cross in the design! Stylistically, personalized names were given according to the region or towns they were made in, such as Axum, Lalibela, or Gondar.

 

                     

                                                            Maria Theresa            Coptic Cross      Austro Hungarian Thaler

 

Ethiopian crosses collected during the last 100 years or more were generally hammered from Maria Theresa silver thalers (dollars). These silver coins were the currency of the Austro-Hungarian empire. Maria Theresa was the empress from 1740 to 1780. In fact, the Maria Theresa thaler served as a trade dollar world wide for 100's of  years. Initially minted in 1782, it is still used today in some places. Saudi Arabia, Lebanon, Syria, Palestine, Yemen, Turkey, Somalia, Ethiopia, Djibouti, Sudan, Egypt, Libya, Algeria, Tunisia, Morocco, Niger, and Chad, are only a beginning list of the countries that have used or still use the Maria Theresa. It was also used in early America.

 

 

 

 

Brass Bracelet

 

Click Thumbnails for Larger Images

 

We don't know where this bracelet was made.  Someone suggest Tibet.

 

It has age, is hammered overall and made in two sections so as to achieve a hollowed section.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Trade Beads - Slave Beads

 

 

 

 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Slave beads (often called Trade beads) were otherwise decorative glass beads used between the 16th and 20th century as a currency to exchange for goods, services and slaves (hence the name). Made to ease the passage of European explorers and then traders mainly across the African continents, the beads were made throughout Europe although the Venetians dominated production. Trade beads are also found in the United States and Canada, and throughout Latin America. The production of slave (trade) beads became so popular that literally tons of these beads were used for this purpose. Beads were used as ballast in slave/trade ships for the outbound trip. The beads and other trade items were exchanged for human cargo as well as ivory, gold and other goods desired in Europe and around the world. The beads traded were not of a set design, but were produced according to demand. Millefiori (thousand flower) beads from Venice, Italy were one of the most commonly traded beads, and are commonly known as "African trade beads." They were produced by creating flowers or stripes from glass canes, that were then cut and molded onto a core of solid color. Beads such as the kiffa beads of Mauritania are thought to have resulted from women creating powdered glass beads to mimic the appearance of millefiori beads.

The success of this form of currency can largely be attributed to the high intrinsic value African people put upon decorative items. Africans often used beads for currency, (often referred to as African money) and wealth storage, and social status could be easily determined by the quality, quantity and style of jewellery worn. This created a high demand for trade beads in Africa.

 

Click Thumbnails for Larger Images

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Most of the seven strings of trade beads on offer date to 19th century Venice, though the brass examples with cosmological symbols were made by the Baule of the Ivory coast. Carnelian beads were made in Bohemia, India and the Sahara. This group is offered as "a collection".

 

 

Chevron Necklace

 

 

 

This rare 4 - 6 layered Chevron necklace of 28 beads has a circumference of 34 cms, or + - 13 inches. The largest bead (center) has a 7.5 cm circumference, or + - 3 inches.

 

 

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Chevron Beads are special glass beads, originally made for trade in the New World and the slave trade in Africa by glassmakers in Italy as far back as the early 15th century. They are composed of many consecutive layers of colored glass. The initial core is formed in a star-shaped mold, and can have anywhere between five and fifteen points. The next layer of glass conforms to that star shape. Several layers of glass can be applied (typically four to seven layers), either star-shaped or smooth. After all layers have been applied, the glass is drawn out to the desired thickness and when cooled, cut into short segments showing the resulting star pattern at their ends. The ends can be ground to display the chevron pattern. Chevron beads are traditionally composed of red, blue, and white layers, but modern chevrons can be found in any color combination. Original beads made for trade to the New World and Africa were typically composed of green, white, blue and red layers.

 

Chevron beads are a specific, historically important type of trade bead. Africa was not the only outlet for these beads. As far back as Christopher Columbus' expeditions, these beads were traded to Native Americans for goods and slaves.

 

Chevron beads are very popular collectors' items and they are still highly valued in present day West Africa, where they continue to be worn for prestige and ceremonial purposes, and occasionally buried with the dead.
 

 

 

 

 

Learn more about Trade Beads here.

 

 

 

Visit our Contemporary Jewellery link here. 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Galerie Ezakwantu

African Art       Franschhoek South Africa       Tribal Art

 

Central and Southern African Tribal Art

 

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African Adornment - African Axes - African Basketry - African Beadwork - African Beer Cups - African Beer Pots - Colonial Figures - African Containers - Contemporary African Art - African Costume - African Currency - African Dolls - African Figures - African Hair Combs - African Headdresses - African Wigs - African Headrests - African Neck Rests - African Masks - Masques Africains - African Meat Platters - African Milk Pails - Miscellaneous Objects African Musical Instruments - African Jewelry - African Jewellery - African Pipes - African Shields - African Snuff  Spoons - African Snuff Bottles - African Spoons - African Ladles - African Staffs - African Status Objects - African Stools - African Thrones - African Tobacco Bags - Central African Weapons - Southern African Weapons - North African Weapons - Other Weapons - Zulu Imbenge Pot Covers

 

 

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Treasures Wanted!

 

 

WANTED                    WANTED

 

If your family traded, visited or lived in Africa, or if you know of others who had and remain with old beadwork, pipes, sticks or ethnic photographs, please contact us. Click the treasure box above to learn more.

 

 

 

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