Mfengu - Thembu and Xhosa Beaded Collars

 "Ithumu"

Nelson Mandela wearing a beaded collar. The photograph was released by the ANC during the 1960's. Images of Mandela were banded by the apartheid government. This and others were only made public in 1990.

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Beaded collars were worn by both men and women throughout the tribal groups living in the Eastern Cape.

 

 

   

 

Circa 1950's

 

 

 

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Xhosa Nursing Charm

Nursing charms called "isixhoxho", adorned women as charms, which broadcasted

 that  the wearers were nursing mothers. Our example dates to the 1940's.

These images were taken at Uncle Van Vasco da Gama van Blommenstein shop in at Mbiza Transkei between 1904 and 1905. The lady seen in the center of the image above right, sports a nursing charm.

Another exceptional example.

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Xhosa Beaded Blanket Pin or Cloak Pin

"Ithumbu"

This beaded pin, sometimes referred to as a "love letter", is so large that it might be considered a beaded panel. It it of the style popular around Cofimvaba and likely dates to the 1940's.

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Thembu Beaded Front Aprons

Thembu beaded aprons called "inkciyo" and considered underpants.

Click a thumb to view an apron.

From the 1940's, these aprons were worn under a ladies skirt.

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Thembu Leather Purses

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Leather purses were used to contain money.

 

The openings were so small that sometime a knife or razor edge had to be used to extract the note.

 

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Ndebele Aprons - Mapoto - Pepetu

Ndebele fashion of the 1940's.

Predominately white aprons date from the 1920's.

A popoto was  worn by an unmarried young girl.

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Ntwane Back Skirt

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This is a fine example of an Ntwane woman's back skirt.

 

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Other Beaded Aprons

Kirdi Apron - Cameroon

The Kirdi are one of a number of small farming communities living in the Northern Cameroon and southern Chad area. They are known for their arts of personal adornment, including beaded aprons.

North Sotho Apron / South Africa

See page 95 of Tracing the Rainbow for a related example.

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Lobedu "Lovedu" Charm Necklaces

LOBEDU

These were presents given to uninitiated girls by their admirers.

Rarely Seen

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Shangaan Wedding Basket

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The Shangaan exchanged beaded wedding basket parts, between wedding families. One family made the upper portion, the other the base, as gifts for the bride and groom. The base is called Xithabana and the lid Xitewana.

 

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