Material Culture

19th Century Beadwork

Northern Sotho material culture of 20th century origin, is rooted in the 19th century period of the larger Basotho-Tswana family of migration and upheavals.

Photograph Circa 1900 - Ivy's Collection

Beaded sashes were  draped over men's chests, much like Europeans did to display rank or office. In this image, a Swazi male wears a North Sotho inspired sash. The overlap is not surprising, as a portion of Swaziland was populated by the Basotho prior to Shaka's Difaqane.

Note the beaded star in the centre band, reminiscent of early collected Ndebele and Shangaan material culture. This star may originate from the Lemba, African Semites.

This early collected sash displays 19th century Sotho diamond shapes, typically outlined with an alternate color. Here, Venetian white-heart beads of 19th century manufacture were used.

Animal hide was used to back this beaded sash.

Look close and you will find a yellow bead in the centre red band. Early beadwork with a single out of place bead is common. The placement of the bead may have been placed to identify ownership, something personal, or perhaps simply humour. 

The sash above also dates to the early 19th century.

It's underside is covered with felt, which would have been an addition or replacement made over time.

This sash suggests early Shangaan style, though we feel it to be of North Sotho origin. Fashion was absorbed and altered during the Mfecane, just as were it's tribal peoples.

This item is most likely of North Sotho origin.

Marilee Wood offered that the tubular brown / green beads used were once favourites of  the North Sotho.

This mystery garment is constructed as a single unit, to be used either a sash, or a girdle. Interestingly, three white beads appear at repetitive positions though out.

 In all likelihood, the article was produced by Sesotho sa Lebo speakers. The design pattern is Sotho, but the beads are tiny, much like those used by the Fena of Mozambique.

We feel this beaded horn is North Sotho related.

Plate 55 Rain-Queens and Python Dance

The construction of the beadwork which runs across from the base of the horn to the tip, is mush like the young girls necklaces above. She is Lobedu, a group within the North Sotho complex of tribal peoples.

Sotho are known to make use of multiple sized beads within a single construction, as seen here. Compare these old colours, to beads of 20th century fashion which follow.

20th Century Beadwork

North Sotho beadwork brightened considerably during the 20th century. Local fashion and the availability of beads were deciding factors. For the most part, beaded 20th century items of the North Sotho, as well as their Venda neighbours, contained the colours of the rainbow.

Unique to the North Sotho are young girls initiation aprons of swallowtail form, worn only by the daughters of headmen or chiefs. 

These initiation aprons are called  mbebana.

Repetitive triangles are typical of North Sotho Beadwork.  In this example, triangles within triangles are depicted.

A single "double connected" apron is known.

This very large example measures 76 cms from either end.

Common girls initiation aprons used predominantly white beads sown onto red Salempore fabric. Salempore was made in India and sold into in the region by traders.

Above, a North Sotho Apron incorrectly published as Tsonga -Shangaan by the Johannesburg Art Gallery in "Dungamanzi – Stirring Waters".

Each mother would make a thito for the initiation of her eldest daughter. Once the daughter, aged 14 to16, had completed initiation, the apron was returned to her mother. It was then kept for the woman's next daughters initiation and so on. On return from the initiation school, each apron was thoroughly washed, which explains why a previously red fabric looks creamy pink today.
 

Note the color beads inserted in both the above aprons.

This apron has circle forms, reminiscent to 19th century Sotho design.

Adult women wore triangular shaped aprons to their rear during ceremonial occasions.

Trinkets, mirrors, beaded calabash disks and in this case, a plastic toy and broken Omega watch were included.

Aprons exhibiting a whiter appearance are location specific.

An identifying factor of North Sotho beadwork are the smaller inter-dispersed black beads found within a "colour section". The technique is exhibited here in an unusual pair of upper arm bands.

Common bracelets of the Northern Sotho.

An elaborately constructed pair with leather inserts.

An elaborate open constructed pair of bracelets.

This back apron of open network is trimmed with pompoms.

A beaded calabash medallion is centred on the apron.

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